By Brian Weis & Fred Altvater
If you are considering a trip to the ‘Home of Golf’ here are a few items that will help you plan your visit.
Golf
The Old Course
Everyone has seen the Old Course when the OPEN Championship is held there and dreams of visiting those hallowed grounds. The OPEN was first held on the Old Course in 1873 and has returned 30 times since. The list of past winners includes the biggest names in the sport, James Braid, Bobby Jones, Sam Snead, Peter Thompson, Jack Nicklaus and Tiger Woods. Both Woods and Nicklaus hoisted the Claret Jug on two occasions.
The St. Andrews Links Trust oversees the Old Course, as well as the adjoining courses, The New Course, Jubilee, Eden Links, Strathtyrum, Balgove and The Castle. Publicly owned, St. Andrews residents can pay a relatively small fee to become a member and play all the courses.
If you are lucky enough to actually play the Old Course the number of walkers and passers by provide a constant gallery for players trying to avoid the cavernous bunkers and three putts on the massive double greens.
Don’t overlook the other courses in the St. Andrews Links Trust. The New, Jubilee and Eden are very enjoyable and require a much lower cost to play for visitors. Beware these courses are walking only and the Castle course is very hilly. The New accepts walk up and the Jubilee accepts tee times 24 hours in advance.
Visitors are able to purchase a three-day pass that allows golfers to play unlimited golf on all six Links Trust courses, excluding the Old Course. In season the cost for the three-day pass is £350 ($ 435 USD).
Brian Weis talked about how to get on the Old Course, places to stay and things to do in St. Andrews on Back 9 Report https://youtu.be/os7qsMv4d9E
Dukes Course
The Dukes Course is owned by the Old Course Hotel, sits above the town and provides wonderful views. It is more of a parkland course with wonderful bunkering. It does allow carts to be used and provides a wonderful break from walking.
Carnoustie
Carnoustie sits 35 miles north of St. Andrews, but is well worth the hour’s drive, or travel by bus from St. Andrews. Regarded as one of the most difficult courses in the world, it has hosted the OPEN on eight separate occasions. It is the site of Jean Van de Velde’s historic collapse, in 1999, Padraig Harrington’s win in 2007 and Francesco Molinari’s 2018 win over Kevin Kisner, Rory McIlroy, Justin Rose and Xander Schauffele.
Firth of Forth Coastline
The Firth of Forth is technically an estuary at the convergence of four rivers, into the North Sea. Along its northern coastline sits three well-known links courses, Kingsbarns, Crail and Dumbarnie.
Kingsbarns
Kingsbarns is universally considered one of the very best courses in the world. Golf actually began at Kingsbarns as early as 1793, but the course was returned to farmland in 1850.
In 1922, Willie Auchterlonie laid out a nine-hole course and the old Kingsbarns Golfing Society was re-established. During WWII the course was reverted to pastureland to feed livestock for the war effort.
Construction of the current Kingsbarns Golf Links began in November 1997 under the direction of architect Kyle Phillips and opened in July 2000.
Back 9 Report captured these views from the Kingsbarns’ 9th fairway, https://youtu.be/rXhgn5ejW9o
Kingsbarns has hosted several major tournaments over the years and annually is one of the three courses used for the Alfred Dunhill Links Championship along with Carnoustie and the Old Course.
Crail
Crail has two 18-hole championship courses, Balcomie and Craighead.
The Balcomie Course is the seventh oldest course in the world and was designed by Old Tom Morris. It sits along the coast on truly unique piece of property. The Craighead course sits slightly higher on land once used for farming. It was designed by Gil Hanse and opened for play in 1998.
On a clear day golfers can see famed North Berwick across the estuary and Kingsbarns to the north.
Dumbarnie Links
Dumbarnie Links is the newest course in the region and has received outstanding reviews. It is one of only 246 true links courses in the world and though relatively new, golfers feel it will soon rival the Old Course and Kingsbarns as a must play when visiting Scotland.
Other Local Courses
Kingsbarns, Crail and Dumbarnie are all upscale courses that can stress your travel budget. A good way to stretch your golfing dollar is to add one, or more of these courses to make your average cost more palatable.
Leven Links
Leven Links dates back to the early 1800’s. With its rolling fairways, sand dunes, fast putting surfaces and pot bunkers it has all the elements of a traditional links course.
Over the years it has hosted many national and international competitions, as well as hosting local final qualifying for the Open Championship in 1978, 1984, 1990, 1995, 2000 and 2005.
Lundin Golf Club
Lundin Golf Club remains largely as it was some 100 years ago. The first five holes are in classic links tradition proceeding from the Clubhouse to the Mile Dyke. Players cross the old railway line and play the newer nine, designed by James Braid, in 1908. The final four holes revert to pure links. Not long by modern standards, Lundin nonetheless presents a thorough test of a golfer’s skills.
For many years Lundin hosted the Final Qualifying stages of The Open Championship, when it was held in St. Andrews.
Anstruther Golf Club
Anstruther Golf Club is a nine-hole golfing experience that you will never forget. The par 3 fifth hole is touted as the most difficult par 3 in Scotland. I would wager it qualifies as one of the most difficult in the world.
At 240 yards the green is partially hidden between a steep rocky cliff and the Firth of Forth. A shot hit to the middle of the fairway short of the green will ultimately roll sideways and be lost to a watery grave. The sixth and seventh holes are also difficult par 3’s that will challenge any golfer.
Back 9 Report filed this video from the tee box at the Anstruther’s difficult par 3 fifth hole. https://youtu.be/7kNN8TkUAO0
For a true Scottish links golf experience at a lower cost, don’t overlook Leven, Lundin and Anstruther, when you visit Fife.
North Berwick
Founded in 1832, North Berwick is listed as the fourth oldest course in the world and sits across the Firth of Forth from Kingsbarns, Crail and Dumbarnie.
The course has hosted final qualifying for the OPEN Championship on several occasions, as well as the Scottish Amateur.
Stone fences, berns and gently rolling topography make this a true test of golf.
Along the route when driving to North Berwick from Edinburgh, Musselburgh, Muirfield and Gullane can also be visited.
Back 9 Report filed this report from their visit, https://youtu.be/gog_1MK0OUo.
How to Travel
With two of us on this trip, we rented a car from the Edinburgh airport. Beware driving on the opposite side of the road is challenging, plus the narrow curving country roads add an exciting flair to your golfing adventure.
Scotland has a wonderful bus and rail system that can be used to reach nearly any destination.
For a group, a packager can arrange a bus, or other travel arrangements.
Tips to Get a Tee Time at the Old Course
There are several ways to obtain a tee time for the Old Course starting with standing in line at the starter’s shed in the wee hours of the morning and waiting in line for an open spot. If your group includes more than one player, don’t try to try this method together. Split up into singles, or a twosome to increase your odds of making the first tee.
Twosomes can also enter the ballot, but the odds of securing a tee time are extremely low as members and packagers receive priority.
If you are traveling with a group, it is advisable to book through a travel packager. There are several of these and are the only real hope to obtain a tee time on the Old Course.
Residents of St. Andrews and members of the course can enter a lottery to obtain a tee time 48 hours before the desired date. We were fortunate to have a friend, who is both a resident and member and was able to secure a tee time for our foursome.
If you are not playing with someone that is familiar with the Old Course, it is advisable to hire a local caddie. He can help with avoiding the hundreds of pot bunkers hidden around the course and help identify the best putting lines on the gigantic greens.
Where to Stay
There are several options for accommodations in the St. Andrews area including AirBNB, hotels and rentals. On our trip we experienced two very different options.
The Old Course Hotel sits beside the famous 17th ‘Road Hole’ on the Old Course. Golfers must hit their drive over a two-story building attached to the hotel to find the best route to the green.
Owned by the Kohler family from Wisconsin, everything is first class. Words to the wise, rooms run upwards of $600 per night, so plan accordingly.
If you would like to avoid the hustle and bustle of the Old Toon, there are several small villages within a 20-mile radius of St. Andrews that offer various accommodation packages.
Charleton House is located just outside of St. Andrews near the coastline at Leven. It has been owned by the same family for 11 generations, dating back to 1749. The old castle still sits on the property, as well as several new eco-lodges that sleep 5-6 people. They include a kitchen, sitting room and back deck that looks down to the Firth of Forth. These provide lodging for golfers visiting the nearby courses, hunters that come for pheasant season and bikers traversing the beautiful Scottish countryside.
The property also includes an 18-hole course opened in 1995, that saw former President George Bush on hand to officially open the course.
Where to Dine
The Old Course Hotel offers the Swilcan Loft that sits on the top floor of the hotel and provides a full panorama of the Old Course. The Road Hole Café serves breakfast and lunch.
The Jigger Inn is also attached to the Old Course Hotel and guests dining al fresco are always in peril of a wayward golf ball from the 17th tee finding its way into their repast.
The Old Tom Morris Bar & Grill is in the clubhouse for the St. Andrews Links. It is the perfect place for a traditional Scottish lunch between rounds and sits near the first tees of the New and Jubilee Links.
Hams Hane Pub & Grill is a short chip away from the 18th green behind the R&A Clubhouse. It offers a variety of sandwiches and delectable treats, as well as a complete list of adult beverages.
These are only a sampling of the enjoyable pubs and eateries to be found in St. Andrews. You can sample the rest when you visit the Home of Golf.
Final Word
Remember nearly every course is walking only. Push carts and caddies are available. Taking a caddie especially at the Old Course, Kingsbarns, Crail, Carnoustie and Dumbarnie are highly recommended.
Brian Weis posts news and information about golf travel at: https://golftrips.com/.
